Skin Care Mistakes and Reader Q&A

Five Things That May Be Doing Your Skin More Harm Than Good

1. Over Exfoliation:

I know how good it feels to exfoliate and get all the nasty dead skin cells off, but if you do it too much you can damage your delicate skin.

You risk harming the skin if you do this more than once a week (twice with a gentle product and if your skin tends to really need it)

Not only that but certain products can cause your skin damage as well. Scrubs that contain sharp edged grains such as St. Ives can cause micro-tearing which causes sensitivity and premature aging.

Bad

St. Ives Apricot Scrub:

Instead, use a chemical exfoliant like Alba Organics Papaya Enzyme Mask. Which is far more gentle for the skin, and won't cause tearing, and won't irritate the skin due to friction.

Good
For All Skin Types

Alba Organics Papaya Enzyme Mask:

Available Here

2. Over Treating Acne/Oil

Often if one has oily skin one might become a bit obsessed with making it less oily and forget about the overall health of the skin.

You should wash your face twice a day (once for dry skin) and not more, and not use any acne products more than recommended on the package. Because if you over dry your skin you can cause it to produce even more oil. It is also recommended you use a gentle foaming cleanser rather than Dove Soap.

Bad
Dove Soap:


Good
For Oily Skin
Bliss Steep Clean Cleansing Milk:
From Sephora

Not to mention, often people with acne prone skins are afraid to moisturize, with combine with the use of oil removing products can leave the skin stripped of its protective barrier which can actually cause more breakouts.

Instead, I'd recommend using an oil free moisturizer, such as DDF Ultra Lite Oil Free Moisturizing Dew, which hydrates and protects the skin without adding oil or causing breakouts.

Good
For Oily Skin

DDF Ultra Lite Oil Free Moisturizing Dew:

From Sephora

3. Using An Over-Drying Toner/Not Using Toner

If you are a drier skin type you may either be using a product that is too drying for your skin, or you might be under the impression that toner is only for oily skin.

The first mistake is actually possible for any skin type. Be careful to check that your toner does not contain alcohol, brands that are particularly guilty of over drying toner include Sea Breeze and Clinique.

Bad

Sea Breeze:

Bad
Clinique:

Instead you should use a gentle alcohol free toner. If your skin is oily one with witch hazel, such as Murad Hydrating Toner.

Good
For Oily Skin
Murad Hydrating Toner:
From Sephora

However, as I was saying, if your skin is normal/dry/sensitive you may be avoiding toners because you immediately assume they're for oily skin types to close pours and help curb oil production. This is wrong. Toners also serve to remove leftover cleanser and minerals deposits left behind by the water, also serving to restore the PH balance of the skin and prep it for accepting serums, moisturizers, etc.

So, instead of using nothing (or something astringent) I'd recommend something hydrating and anti-aging, such as Bliss Daily Detoxifying Toner, or Juice Beauty Hydrating Spritz. For sensitive skin DDF Aloe Toning Complex is hydrating and soothing.

Good
For Dry/Normal Skin
Bliss Daily Detoxifying Toner:
From Sephora

Good
For Dry/Normal Skin
Juice Beauty Hydrating Spritz:
From Sephora

Good
For Sensitive Skin
DDF Aloe Toning Complex:
From Sephora

4. Picking At Your Zits/Squeezing

First of all, if a zit is red and inflamed (hurts, feels hot, etc) squeezing it isn't going to do any good. The infection is deep down in the follicle and squeezing it won't get anything out. Instead apply a spot treatment with Salicylic Acid (or Sulfur if you're allergic to aspirin), and wait till it's got a white head to it.

Once it's stopped hurting, and has a white head, you should apply a hot compress (not too hot) a warm wash cloth changed every few minutes, applied for about ten minutes and wait for it to open and drain itself. Once the follicle is open you can apply gentle pressure with the pads of your fingers. After it has fully drained rinse face with cold water, and apply antibacterial ointment, or a kaolin mask.

Remember, if a black head (comedone) isn't coming out easily it probably isn't ready, and you'll simply inflame your skin. Also don't try to extract your skin more than twice a week, and only do so just after you've stepped out of a hot shower. Also make sure you don't just keep trying to extract for an hour after you get out of the shower. Instead go for about ten minutes, and then apply witch hazel to skin if you tend to be oily. Be sure to wash your hands with antibacterial soap before attempting any extractions.

Bad

Squeezing Without Prep:

Good

Clean And Clear Spot Treatment:
Available at your local drugstore

A kaolin clay mask can help unclog pours, and regular exfoliation can help prevent them.


5. Skin Lighteners

These products often feature hydroquinone which is EXTREMELY DANGEROUS, or alkaline chemicals which dry and irritate the skin making it even more vulnerable to future hyper pigmentation and infection.

Instead of using bleaching products (homemade or otherwise) I'd recommend using a full spectrum physical sunblock with zinc oxide or titanium dioxide to prevent hyper pigmentation in the first place. Physical sunblock is particularly good as it's hypoallergenic and always full spectrum.

Bad

Murad Age Spot And Lightening Gel:

Good
For All Skin Types

DDF Organic Sunblock SPF 30:

From Sephora

Good
For All Skin Types

Korres Natural Products Watermelon Sunscreen SPF 30:
From Sephora

Reader Q&A

Question: Dear Madeira,is there a way to draw on your eyebrows without having to shave them all the way off? I once saw in Kevin Aucoin's book 'Making Faces' that there was a way to do this, but as I didn't buy the book I forgot how to do it. - Mon Couer Noir

Answer:
To cover your eyebrows (so you don't have to shave them off)

Step One: one should use witch hazel to remove the oils.

Step Two: Apply spirit gum heavily working into the brows, and then flatten with a finger tip until dry, but don't wait too long or it'll get too tacky.

Step Three: Use a theatrical eyebrow wax (I like Kryolan brand for this) and knead it between your fingers till it's pliant and apply a layer over brows.,

Step Four: Apply full coverage foundation (MAC Studio Tech is a nice one for photoshoots, and going out) and powder down.

Step Five: Use liquid liner to draw brows in.

And lastly remember practice makes perfect. - Much Love, Madeira Darling

Next Week: 5 Best Alternative Beauty Bargains, Hopefully More Reader Questions, and How To Achieve A Beehive.

Want your question on this blog? E-mail me at: Glittertrashwhore@gmail.com